Have you ever wanted to peer inside the crater of a still-active volcano? Does your jaw drop at the sight of bright turquoise-blue glacier lakes? Well, do I have the hike for you!
Ecuador’s Quilotoa Loop is a 3-day, 35 km village-to-village adventure through the stunning Andean highlands, starting in the town of Sigchos and culminating in the pride of the region, the Laguna Quilotoa.
This lagoon is a beautiful aquamarine lake nestled inside the caldera of a volcano, rewarding hikers with a stupendous sight for all that cursing’ and sweatin’. The caldera is 3 kms in diameter and filled with noxious water; you cannot swim in the lake and you certainly cannot drink its water.
Despite its name, this hike itself is not a loop (you start and end in buses going to/from Latacunga, hence the loop). The trail is a mix of dirt roads and footpaths snaking through farmer’s fields and clusters of homes occupied by the indigenous Kichwa people, who live off the volcanic soil on Quilotoa’s flanks.
Quilotoa’s last eruption took place circa 1280 and was one of the largest eruptions in the world over the past millennium, sending lava into the Pacific Ocean over a hundred miles away! Though Quilotoa is considered a small volcano, the last eruption caused huge valleys to be formed all around it, making the hike up and down these steep valleys famously arduous.
As someone who travels to hike in new places, I like knowing what to expect, all while welcoming spontaneity. Nothing worse than an unpleasant surprise that could have been prevented! So for the sake of clarity, this guide has been divided into three segments: Part 1 - Hike Quilotoa (Days 1, 2 and 3), Part 2 - Plan your trip and Part 3 - Arrive in Ecuador.
Enjoy!
Hike Quilotoa
QUILOTOA HIKE (OVER 3 DAYS):
*Total distance: 35 kms (22 miles)
*Total elevation gain: 2 460 m
*Total walking time: Approx 16-18 hours
*Quilotoa Hike (AllTrails)
*WALKING MAP OF FULL HIKE (Sigchos to Quilotoa)
TIP - On all three days, AllTrail maps were a godsend. Trail markers can sometimes be a challenge to find, while at other times they are very obvious. There is a good chance you’ll walk straight past a marker (sometimes a very faded yellow line painted on a rock on the ground) so check your map regularly. You might hate whipping out your phone so often in such a natural setting, but you’ll be thankful for it later.
Day 1 - Sigchos to Isinlivi
Distance: 10 kms (6 miles)
Highest altitude: Isinlivi - 2700 m above sea level
Elevation gain: 550 m up (most of it toward the end)
Walking time: Approx 4 hours
Day 1 - Sigchos to Isinlivi (AllTrails)
Day 1 is a treat, a good warm-up for the two days to follow. The trailhead begins south-east of the village of Sigchos; follow the red and yellow signs.
Head down a beautiful lush valley on the main unpaved road. Eventually, you'll turn onto a footpath and meander through farmland filled with friendly locals and cows, pigs, chickens, sheep and dogs (all of whom were amiable with the exception of one gray and scraggly mess of a dog). The views along the river are stunning.
Slideshow - Click on arrows (below right, on photo) to see all 4 photos:
After about two hours, cross the river on a small concrete bridge; from here, you start heading up the opposite valley. We followed the faint footpath through grassy fields (as indicated by AllTrails and by the yellow and red signs), but alternately, you could walk along the unpaved main road and follow the Llullu Llama Mountain Lodge signs. It all leads to the same place, although the footpath through the farms is definitely steeper and more adventurous.
The last 1.5 hours of hiking today is a steep crawl up through grassy, farmed land. Don’t forget to look behind you for stunning views of the valley you just crossed. Be mindful to close any gates behind you to keep the animals in (or out).
At one point, your footpath will pop out of the grassy fields and rejoin the winding main road. There are great views of the opposite valley from up here, although it was pouring rain so vistas were somewhat impeded. The rain was a welcome refresher to wash away a bit of that mugginess.
At one point, your footpath will pop out of the grassy fields and rejoin the winding main road. There are great views of the opposite valley from up here, although it was pouring rain so vistas were somewhat impeded. The rain was a welcome refresher to wash away a bit of that mugginess.
Once you join up with the main road, Isinlivi is about 30 minutes away - a welcome sight!
There are less expensive places to stay in Isinlivi than Llullu Llama Mountain Lodge, but the photos were so beautiful online that we couldn’t resist. If that’s where you've booked, look for this building on your right as you enter the town. Kick up your feet, and enjoy the atmosphere and hearty food.
Slideshow - Click on arrows (below right, on photo) to see all 5 photos:
Day 2 - Isinlivi to Chugchilan
Distance: 12 km (7.5 miles)
Altitude: Chugchilan - 3200 m above sea level
Elevation gain: 800 m
Walking time: 5-6 hours
Day 2 - Isinlivi to Chugchilan (AllTrails)
We woke up super happy and relaxed; we ate our communal breakfast with all other hikers (7am sharp!) and left for our second day on the trail. We loved Day 2; a bit steeper and longer than Day 1, but filled with beautiful green valleys, narrow canyon passes and Indigenous settlements.
After a hearty breakfast of freshly-squeezed juice, eggs, pastries and warm gooey bread, down the valley we went. Everything is so beautiful and green!
About an hour or so into our hike, a huge rock wall appears before us. This leads into Toachi Canyon.
We meandered down (and up) through the hills and eventually came upon Toachi Canyon, which was very muddy and fun. This was honestly one of the most pleasurable parts of the day; I do love a good sticky mud puddle.
The trail leads you down toward the river, where you can unpack that delicious lunch.
There are many villagers working the fields and dogs coming up to say hi and possibly trot alongside you. They are always quite clean and well-fed; they’re obviously domesticated and surprisingly, they never begged for food.
Eventually you’ll have to cross the river on a log bridge. Turning left after the bridge, keep meandering steadily uphill until you reach the tiny village of Itualo. There’s a house on the right that sells drinks and snacks. Here, you’ll have a choice between two routes: The Safe Way or The Adventure Way (named Los Canyones).
I wouldn’t say The Adventure Way isn’t safe, but if you’re afraid of heights or if you aren’t sure-footed, you might want to take The Safe Way. This trail turns right, next to the house, and heads up the mountain, whereas The Adventure Way (Los Canyones) continues straight down the dirt road (it is also the way that AllTrails suggests). The Adventure Way may add a few more kms to your day, but it climbs up to allow for beautiful, sweeping views of a gorgeous, green valley. We did not regret our choice.
From the viewpoint above, you’re about 1.5 hours (of steep, uphill walking) away from Chugchilan. To be honest, I hit a bit of a wall here. I should have eaten something, but I had started feeling sick and feverish, and I had to run for the bushes several times. I just wanted to get to our hostel, but the hardest part of the day was still in front of me. Ugh.
The path up did seem interminable, but we eventually broke through the steep hills onto the paved main road. The hostel was still one km away. By the time we arrived, I had a full fever and went straight to bed without being able to truly enjoy our beautiful accommodations at Hostal Cloud Forest.
The owner of this hostel was absolutely amazing. He is one of the pioneers of the Quilotoa Loop and his daughter was friendly and spoke fluent English. (I can’t remember either of their names, but I’ll never forget their kindness). When he saw that I had trouble eating supper (despite being very hungry), he brewed me a medicinal tea. He warned me it would taste awful, but it did the trick - after a full night's sleep, my fever and chills were much abated and I felt shaky but ready to tackle Quilotoa's toughest day.
Day 3 - Chugchilan to Quilotoa
Distance: 13 km (8 miles)
Altitude: Quilotoa Village - 3800 m above sea level
Elevation gain: 1,000 m
Walking time: 5-6 hours
Day 3 - Chugchilan to Quilotoa (AllTrails)
One good night's sleep, two tablets of Imodium and a full breakfast later (again, 7am sharp!), Jason and I picked up my packed lunch and headed out early on what would be the longest day of the hike.
Today, there will be more downhill-then-climb-back-up than the previous two days. This can be disheartening if you're used to hiking up (to the summit of a mountain, for instance), then coming back down in two fell swoops. On the Quilotoa Loop, you often feel as though you are climbing down a hill you just worked hard to get up. So the terrain takes a bit of mental readjusting. It’s beautiful, and it’s worth it.
Looking back at quilted farmers' fields - what a view !
This traverse was one of my favourite parts of the entire Quilotoa Loop. The path led us down to the bottom of this valley, then climbed back up those dark hills in the background. I needed some hugs, some meds and some chocolate, but it was less daunting than it looked. Just keep on trekkin’!
You walk uphill for quite a long time on the flanks of Quilotoa without realizing it; it’s not really obvious you’re climbing a mountain, let alone an actual volcano.
Day 3 is the most arduous day of the journey, in part because the sight of the beautiful turquoise lake below you, framed by a huge volcanic caldera, feels like the end. The apex to your journey. Somewhat cruelly, it is not. You must walk another 5 or 6 kilometers (counter-clockwise) until you reach Quilotoa Village. Inexplicably, I thought I only had about 350 meters to go (Who was too sick to even think of reading about today’s hike?), so I was grumpy for the 2nd time today.
Despite my sickness, the remaining 45 minutes were actually very cool; we walked along the rim, watching the fog drift to reveal bits of the azure lake and jagged cliff edges.
You can visit the Quilotoa Lagoon by bus for a simple day trip, but arriving here on foot was definitely a harder-hitting reward. There is a fee of 2$ US per person to enter the village. Once you get to your hostel, enjoy a hot shower and explore this cute little town. There is a free patio overlooking the lagoon, as well as a proper overlook platform (small fee).
There is a path leading down to the shore; it’s a good 300m drop (1 hour downhill and at least 2 hours uphill), but you can rest your muscles with a motorized boat ride or a paddle in a kayak on the lake’s still waters. For those who just haven’t walked quite enough over the last 3 days, there is a footpath circling the entire caldera (4-6 hours).
Due to that bus access, Quilotoa is very touristy but it’s a good place to pick up some beautiful, locally-made arts and crafts (again, cash only - no ATMs). Buses leave frequently for Latacunga until about 5pm (allowing you to complete the ‘loop’) for around 3 $ US.
2. PLAN YOUR TRIP!
The Quilotoa Loop is in the province of Cotopaxi, a few hours southwest of Ecuador’s capital city, Quito. The starting point of the hike is accessible from many areas in Ecuador, but for simplicity's sake I’ll describe the journey from Quito, as you’re likely to land there. A plane ticket to Quito can be hefty and often involves a stopover in Miami (USA), but costs will lower significantly once you’re in Ecuador. In fact, the Quilotoa Loop is one of the most budget-friendly hikes I’ve ever done.
Your three overnight stays should be reserved ahead of time (the first in Isinlivi, the second in Chugchilán, and the last in Quilotoa).
Also, it’s highly recommended that you bookend your hike with two overnight stays in Latacunga - one night before and one night after the hike. You can store anything you don’t need for the hike in your hostel while you hike, then recuperate it afterwards.
Book your beds!
The Quilotoa Loop was mapped and built by many villagers and local guides; you may very well meet some of the men who dug out the path with their own hands. Your sojourn in these family-run lodgings will directly support these devoted and hard-working communities.
The lodgings along the trail are higher in quality than many places I’ve stayed (even in Europe), and we paid a fraction of what they were truly worth. Supper and breakfast are included in most rates; the food is nutritious, portions are generous and they’ll even pack you a lunch (for a small fee), so you don’t have to organize your food or water. Your buck gets you an amazing bang here. Here’s the breakdown of our accommodations:
Day/Night 0 (Pre-hike) - The gateway city to Quilotoa is Latacunga. Hostal Café Tiana seems to be every hiker’s choice for accommodation; they have lovely, clean rooms (20$ US for a private room/private bathroom). The walk to the bus station (to catch a bus to Sigchos) is 15 minutes. Breakfast is 3.50 $ US. They will store your extras (anything you don’t need for Quilotoa) in a locker while you are hiking, although it’s imperative that you bring your own lock and keys. Head up to the rooftop for great views. (Alternative: Latacunga Hostel ).
Day/Night 1 - In Isinlivi, we stayed at the incomparable Llullu Llama Mountain Lodge for 60 $ US (private room with private bathroom, dinner/breakfast included, free tea/coffee, packed lunch for 6.50 $ US). Hot tub and yoga classes!
Llullu Llama Mountain Lodge (Booking.com) (Alternative: Hostal Taita Cristobal)
Day/Night 2 - In Chugchilán, we stayed at Hostal Cloud Forest for 28 $ US (private room with private bathroom, dinner/breakfast included, packed lunch for 3 $ US). The friendly owner is a pioneer of the Quilotoa Loop and helped elevate it to international standards. I chose this hostel based on this fact alone, but there are tons of other options in Chugchilán. Hostal Cloud Forest (Booking.com)
Day/Night 3 - In Quilotoa, we stayed at Hosteria Chukirawa for 50 $ US (private room with private bathroom, small breakfast included, but not supper). It was comfortable and allowed us to relax after the long 3rd day (rather than rush back to Latacunga). Hostería Chukirawa (Booking.com)
Day/Night 4 (Post-hike) - Take a bus back to Latacunga and to Hostal Café Tiana to retrieve bags, take a hot shower and sink into their seriously comfy beds.
TIP - There are no ATMs on the trail, so bring enough cash to pay for all of your lodgings, for any packed lunches you may order/snacks you may buy, and for your transportation from Latacunga to Sigchos and from Quilotoa to Latacunga. Most hostels in Quilotoa don’t include supper or breakfast, so you’ll have to purchase that. Bring small US bills (20s, 10s and 5s), as locals can’t exchange larger bills at their bank. Remember, your credit card is useless plastic here (as in many parts of Ecuador).
Transportation
There is no reason to buy or reserve your various bus tickets and airport shuttles ahead of time, as there are tons of buses leaving regularly.
Before leaving, download a map of the hike from a reputed site, such as AllTrails, as ‘crossroads’ are not always obvious on the trail and markers can often be easy to miss. At one point, a very faint foot path appeared on grass, hidden behind some trees, and we walked right past it. Consistent map-checking kept us from retracing our steps.
In fact, I would download a series of maps of all the regions in which you will travel in Ecuador, as it will help with bus navigation. The local buses don't always drop you off at recognizable stations or designated stops; your Latacunga stop may very well be on the side of an indistinct highway, so a map will let you know that you have (unwittingly) arrived. Following our bus’ trajectory on our downloaded map allowed us to get off at the right stop more than once, rather than waiting to arrive at a designated stop that never would have come.
There are no vaccinations/shots needed to travel in this part of Ecuador. Check your country’s VISA requirements beforehand.
Pack Your Gear!
You’ll have to be strategic here. You’ll want to pack light, but be ready for downpours or light, steady rain. Even near the equator, it gets cold as you climb in altitude. We hiked the Quilotoa Loop in December and even though we only wore our puffy jackets in the evenings, we were so thankful we brought them!
I wore my Gregory 28-litre Jade backpack and it was more than enough. It was my main travel bag for Ecuador and since I left many items behind in Latacunga (in a second bag I used as my carry-on), it was about ¾ full for the Quilotoa Loop.
Here were our 6 absolute essentials:
Hiking poles Absolutely indispensable on this hike! You will cross over a few shallow streams, but lots of mud and unsteady terrain (although very little dangerous exposure). Poles will greatly assist with steep uphills and downhills, and could create distance between you and some of the (many) friendly dogs you’ll encounter.
Rain gear Since you’ll be walking through cloud forests, pack rain gear. My favourite piece of gear was my thick, well-built poncho, which easily slid over my shoulders and backpack while still allowing for aeration and breathability. I only wore my rain jacket/pants twice, as the rain was mostly refreshing and sporadic (and in the afternoons!). Regardless of the weather forecast, don’t leave your rain gear behind!
Toilet paper There are no toilets on the trail (I think we passed one village that had one). Bring a full roll of toilet paper and two ziploc bags: one to keep your clean roll dry and another to carry your used paper.
Imodium (anti-diarrhea tablets) Oh lordy lordy. We are still unsure where/how we caught the bug, but we both had to intermittently run for the bushes while walking the trail. We also took a few tablets before the long, bumpy bus rides. Imodium tablets will pair up nicely with that toilet paper mentioned above. Keep ‘em both close.
Good footwear Neither of us wore hiking boots, as the trail is well tapped down and we wanted to keep it light. A broken-in pair of aggressive trail runners (Salomon Speedcross, woop woop!) will do the trick, as traction will be your friend here. Pack multiple pairs of hiking socks; your feet may get soaked, so you’ll want extras and you might even want to change mid-hike. Bring a pair of light shoes/flip-flops for the evening, or down booties.
Water bladder I like going hands-free and having a convenient water spout on my shoulder when hiking. My 2.5L bladder got (mostly) filled every morning with the filtered water provided at each hostel. Jason brought his water bottle with a built-in filter, but didn’t use it. There aren’t any water sources on the trail other than the brown river, so filtering is not really feasible. Bring your largest container/bottle (you need to drink lots at high altitude!) and fill up at the hostels. Do not drink tap water in Ecuador!!
All items brought on the hike (It seems like a lot, but you’ll be wearing some of this):
Wallet with lots of US cash (No ATMs on the trail and cards not accepted - Cash only)
Two breathable hiking t-shirts
One long-sleeved breathable shirt
One hiking bra
Hiking pants
Puffy jacket
Rain jacket/rain pants
Poncho
Hiking shoes and 4-5 hiking socks
Leggings/light sweater/leisure bra/down booties (for evening/pjs) The leggings could be layered under my hiking pants if it got cold.
Multiple undies
Light tuque/gloves
Head/neckwear (Buff)
Ballcap
Sunglasses
Hiking poles
Book
Headlamp with battery charger (Never hike without one!)
Phone and charger
Toilet paper roll (in Ziploc bag)
Extra Ziploc bags (For, well… you know)
Sun protection (Even in December)
Bug repellent (The tiny bugs were almost invisible but they completely mangled our legs.)
First Aid kit (include painkillers, blister prevention/care, Imodium, thumb-sized roll of duct tape)
Toiletries: Soap, deodorant, toothbrush/paste, any Rx, period stuff for the ladies, etc.
3. Arrive in Ecuador!
Once you’ve landed in Quito’s Mariscal Sucre Airport, it will take you roughly 3.5 hours to arrive in Latacunga.
From Quito’s airport, hire a private taxi to Quito’s South Terminal (Quitumbe Bus Station Sur), about 25 $ US, roughly 45 minutes. If you’ve got more time and less money, take a shuttle bus there. The shuttle bus will certainly take much longer, but cost much less. Either by bus or taxi, you need to get from the airport to Quitumbe Bus Station Sur to catch a 2nd bus to Latacunga.
Tickets are usually 2-4 $ US per person and that 2nd bus ride lasts roughly 2 hours with frequent stops. There are innumerable buses running regularly between Quito and Latacunga; no need to buy a ticket ahead of time. Again, ask whether the bus arrives at Latacunga’s station or by the side of the highway (most likely). Speaking minimal Spanish will help, as stops aren’t announced or posted. Once we were dropped off by the side of the highway, a fleet of taxis lined up, and we took one straight to Hostal Café Tiana. Clearly, this is the norm.
Of course, you can always catch a taxi from Quito’s Mariscal Sucre Airport all the way to the hostel in Latacunga (a good 2.5 hour drive), but expect to pay a minimum of 150 $ US for the ride.
In Latacunga, on the morning of Day 1, give yourself plenty of time to eat breakfast, store your bag in a locker, walk to the station and buy yourself a bus ticket to Sigchos (where you will start your hike). We recommend that you take the first bus to Sigchos at 8 am. It is a 2-hour bus journey from Latacunga to Sigchos, so you’ll have plenty of time to arrive (around 10 am), get your bearings (grab coffee/water/lunch/snacks and use a restroom) and walk from Sigchos to Isinlivi (about 4 hours). Best of all, you’ll have lots of chill time at Llullu Llama Mountain Lodge in Isinlivi.
General
If you manage to walk this entire trail without once stepping in cow or dog poop, you deserve a medal. Or at least lots of chocolate.
You can hire a local guide to tag along; you will surely learn heaps about the local culture while supporting the communities here. One aspect of the hike that I regretted not experiencing was a connection with the locals; they were friendly, but there was an obvious language barrier. I didn't take any photos of them, as I find it rude to do so without their consent.
Your gear can also be packed on mules or donkeys, and apparently there is a baggage-forward service between villages. Both options would greatly alleviate your journey if that’s a concern.
Don't underestimate the altitude for this trek. At one point toward the end of the second day, my legs felt heavy and I could feel my body struggle. My cardio wasn't really affected, so I suspect it was the altitude. I also felt a bit feverish and weak that evening, but was able to sleep it off. Drink tons of water during your hike and in the evenings.
It was sunny on most mornings, so we set out early every day to avoid the afternoon showers. Give yourself plenty of time for photos and arrive early to enjoy your new digs.
So there you have it, folks! Quilotoa Loop in all its glory. It was one of my favourite international hikes and one that I would place very high on a hiker’s Bucket List.
Safe travels, my friend. xx
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